Hey guys, I am looking into getting started in reloading, but not sure which way to go. Should I start with a single stage until I decide if I am really into it or just go for a turret press? Also, are the dies propriotary or can different manufacturers dies work on different presses?

Definitely start out with a single stage. Not so much for seeing if you like it. It would be more for paying close attention to what you are doing . You can make mistakes with both set ups . It's easier to screw up big time on a progressive if you don't know what you are doing.

Most dies are interchangeable. Normally if they are not they sell adapters.

When you start out focus on making quality not quantity ammo . Get Books, books , and more books

Thanks guys. I just purchased my first AR-10 and in order to afford to feed the beast I decided I needed to look into reloading.

He did mention "turret" press, which is a single stage press with a rotating top. Same principle, just that the dies need not removing for each stage of loading, just rotate the top.

If he indeed did mean turret, I'd say either one, again both operate on the same principle.

If the OP meant "progressive", then by all means I would suggest a single stage if not experienced with handloading.

I would think that it would be advisable to be comfortable with the process of loading before tackling the learning curve of a progressive.

Reloading will not really save you any money. Just like owning a gun you are always upgrading stuff. If you get into it look at it like you are custom tayloring your ammo to the gun. To make ammo that is made for the best accuracy in your gun takes time and money. lots of trial and error . More and more equipment.

How true!!

I simply shoot more.



Absolutely. The latest expenditure is an annealing machine......

I found starting with straight wall revolver cartridges a lot easier. I don't yet reload .308, even though it was in the plan. There seems to be a lot more to consider there, and more equipment needed. A case trimmer, possibly a case gauge plus calipers. And then do you use small base dies, regular dies, RCBS x-dies, etc?

The main differences with bottleneck and straight wall are in trimming and lubing. You generally don't need to trim straight wall casings, while bottleneck brass needs to be trimmed after first firing, and again after a few firings. Bottlenecks through semi-autos require trimming more frequently, bolt actions, less to not at all.

Lubing is also the critical resizing change. With straight wall casings, you can generally get away with using a carbide die, and no lube. You HAVE to lube bottleneck casings every time you resize them. This can be shell by shell, or with an aerosol, ot throw them in a bag with lube and shake it up. Everyone has their way of doing it. It's a pain, and unless you do it, you will get stuck casings when you resize.

And yes, these extra steps can make you seriously consider the time investment in reloading bottleneck brass.

In addition to those issues, my understanding is you can't generally just toss the lubed brass into the sizing die and that's that. You have to make sure it is setting the shoulder back enough and not too much, as the resizing affects how the round will headspace.

Certainly plenty of people do it though, all I meant was that in terms of learning, there are easier cartridges to learn on if that's an option.

Good point, aurora, on both starting with a pistol case and the shoulder setback issue. I use RCBS precision mics, but any comparator will let you know how much setback you are getting.

I generally try for .002". Too much more, case life gets short and the possibility of a case head separation increases.

I'll set back every time for levers and semi-autos, bolts every 3rd or 4th time, resistance to closing the bolt will let me know when.

That's about the time to anneal...it never ends.....